Would you like to see my kilim?

I finally broke down and went rug shopping. Yikes! Potentially dangerous but obligatory activity. The family who used to live in the fort had a carpet weaving factory here during the Taliban regime. “50 looms,” Qais said, “upstairs where the dining room is now.” They had to sneak all of the girls in to work everyday since it was not allowed. The factory is no longer in operation, but the family is still in the rug business. One day after work I walked into the courtyard of the guest house to find the garden completely covered in rugs. Qais had pulled all of the rugs out for a visitor to browse, and we could all benefit from it. A couple of hours later I was the proud owner of three beautiful pieces: a sumac, a carpet and another one that I can’t remember the name of... Afterward, we went up on the roof, had a beer and flew kites a la “The Kite Runner,” kite fighting and all. Sounds rather idyllic (and it was!).

Yes, we have puppies... future guard dogs that is.